Friday, February 4, 2022

London Itinerary 2022

Checked out London Walks for their guided walks around London. The walk cost £15 and last about 2 hours. Jack the Ripper - every day. Excellent guide who had done it for about 15 years.

The National Gallery Trafalgar Square, London. Saw the special exhibition of the works of Raphael. Noted paintings by Vermeer, Canaletto, Ingres, van Dyck, Rubens, Gainsborough [my print!], Raphael, da Vinci, Velázquez, Caravaggio, Botticelli, etc. Open Sat-Thu 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-21:00 ( Charing Cross, Leicester Square). A first rate museum.

Victoria & Albert Museum. ( South Kensington). One of my favorite museums. So many things to see that I am interested in that it is exhausting. Toured mostly the Medieval & Renaissance (1350-1600) sections which took about 2-3 hours. That was enough for one day. That is probably less than a 10th of what is to see at the museum. Another visit is a must.

Shopping

Picked up West Indian Lime cologne at Geo F. Trumper, and had a haircut after 2 years of doing it myself (COVID 19!). Located at 9 Curzon Street, Mayfair, London ( Green Park)

Restaurants
See my London restaurant page here.

Greenwich
Greenwich Royal Observatory. The observatory is a great visit and has an amazing view of London. I was so excited to see John Harrison's chronometers! Saw the "Painted Hall" and the Nelson Room in the Old Royal Naval College. Pretty good but I was most impressed by the memorial to Sir John Franklin and those lost on his Arctic expedition. ( Greenwich - Jubilee Line; Greenwich or Maze Hill)

National Maritime Museum. Saw the special exhibition of Canaletto's complete views of Venice at the National Maritime Museum. ( Greenwich - Jubilee Line; Greenwich or Maze Hill) An excellent exhibit of one of my favorite painters!

Cutty Sark. ( Greenwich - Jubilee Line; Greenwich or Maze Hill). A very good tour of this classic ship.

Queen's House. ( Greenwich - Jubilee Line; Greenwich or Maze Hill). An interesting house but not worth a side trip or a second visit.


Day Trips from London:

Kew Gardens. The Royal Botanical Gardens. ( Kew Gardens - District Line). A must see even if, like me, you are not greatly interested in flora. The variety is astounding with the largest collection of plants in the world. Saw so many strange plants including lots of carnivorous plants. Water lilies the size of a small boat! And see plants from such a range of environments: desert to rain forest.

Accommodation

See my London accommodation page here.

Thursday, February 3, 2022

London Restaurants

Rules (the oldest restaurant in London - 1798). 35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden. Traditional English, esp. classic game cookery!! See menu here. Try game soup or dressed crab appetizer. And main courses are pheasant, hare, venison, partridge, duck or lamb;  ( Covent Garden, Leicester Square or Charing Cross) map

While Rules specializes in game and domesticated meat, Wiltons is THE restaurant for seafood in London. Located at 55 Jermyn Street in the heart of the men's fashion district. ( Piccadilly Circus)

Tom Chamberlin of The Rake magazine has recommended 5 of the top classic restaurants in London everyone must try. They include Rules and Wiltons noted above as well as Bellamy's, Bruton Place, near Berkeley Square; Rowley's on Jermyn Street; and finally The Guinea Grill, Bruton Place, Mayfair is an excellent steak house. (See also A Gentleman's Guide to London by Tom Chamberlin.)

A special place to eat is The Ivy with its own version of a classic shepherds pie. 1-5 West Street ( Covent Garden, Leicester Square)

Simpson's in the Strand has classic British fare with excellent roast beef, and Kedgeree for breakfast. Located at 100 Strand. ( Charing Cross, Temple or Covent Garden)

Breakfast: Great eggs Benedict and its variations at Cecconi in Mayfair, also great Italian lunch. For the best full English try The Wolseley, 160 Piccadilly, Mayfair. ( Piccadilly Circus)

The Keep, Brook Green, 43 Blythe Road. Libertarian Drinks on 3rd Wednesdays. ( Kensington)

Winner of best afternoon tea in London 2012 - Langham Hotel £40 + tip

Dukes Bar in Mayfair is the ultimate in high class bar to simply enjoy a quiet drink expertly made. Made famous as the drinking place for Ian Fleming who enjoyed their famous martini. Located in Dukes Hotel, 35 St James's Pl.

Grouse & Claret Wine Bar - Excellent London Confidential recommendation, p.77. 14 Little Chester St. ( Victoria) map
 
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Pub (v.good pub and English food), Wine Office Court 145 Fleet St. ( Chancery Lane) map

Frederick's, Camden Passage. London Confidential recommendation. ( Angel)

Cafe Des Amis du Vin. London Confidential recommendation. ( Covent Garden)

Hung, Drawn & Quartered. 26-27 Great Tower Street. ( Tower Hill)

Simplicity, 1 Tunnel Road, Rotherithe ( Canada Water) map

E Pellicci, 332 Bethnal Green Road. Telegraph recommendation - Art Deco and artsy clientele. ( Bethnal Green) map

Ole & Steen Lagkagehuset. Good spot for tea and dessert. Located across from Victoria Station in a mall called Nova Victoria on Sir Simon Milton Square.

Knightsbridge

Some quality pubs near Harrods: Bunch of Grapes is a good traditional pub with reasonable prices (e.g., fish & chips for £14.79). Owned by the same company as Bunch of Grapes, Tattersalls Tavern is another traditional pub. The Grenadier is a highly rated pub that mostly locals frequent because it is somewhat hidden at 18 Wilton Row, about a 12 minute walk from Harrods.

Tuesday, February 1, 2022

London Accommodations

Recommended by Rick Steves in Knightsbridge/Chelsea area, 7 min walk to V&A Museum, and 17 min walk to Harrod's. 16 min by tube to National Portrait Gallery. 18 min by tube to Saville Row (£90 and £180 depending on season). Aster House, 3 Sumner Place, London, SW7 3E.
Outside UK: +44 20 7581 5888 Reservations@AsterHouse.com. See map.  ( South Kensington, via Piccadilly or Circle line)

The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone is a well located and moderately priced (for central London) boutique hotel. It is highly rated by The Telegraph for its Victorian charm and first rate cocktail bar. 28-30 Seymour Street, London W1H 7JB. 020 7324 4544 (£175) ( Marble Arch)

Captain Bligh House, 100 Lambeth Rd. London SE1 7PT +44 20 7928 2735 (£55) map ( Lambeth North - 5 minute walk!)

Jesmond Hotel, 63 Gower St. (£79. 15% discount for one week stay) map ( Goodge Street - Northern Line; Euston Square - multiple; Russell Square - Piccadilly; Tottenham Court Road - Central Line).

Mowbray Court Hotel, 28-32 Penywern Road, Kensington, London SW5 9SU. +44 (0) 20 7373 8285. (£190) info@mowbraycourt.com. ( Earls Court - 1 minute walk from the hotel!!) I stayed here. Tiny room but clean and fairly new. Continental plus breakfast included. Best value for the location.

Better than Mowbray for cost is Park Grand London Kensington which only a 3 minute walk from Earl's Court tube station and is almost half the price of Mowbray (~$220). I stayed at the Mowbray because it was last minute and the only reasonably priced one available. I need to book further in advance.

Travelodge (John recommend - cheap especially when booked ahead)

Ridgemount Hotel, 65-67 Gower Street, London WC1E 6HJ, England +44 (0) 20 7636 1141. (£85). Highly recommended on Trip Advisor ( Goodge Street - Northern Line; Warren Street - Victoria Line; Tottenham Court Road - Central Line).

Rhodes Hotel, 195 Sussex Gardens, Hyde Park. +44 207 2620 537. (£80). Highly recommended on Trip Advisor ( or  Paddington)

hub by Premier Inn | London Goodge Street, Brook House, Torrington Place, WC1E 7HN. Ultra modern decor! (£96) ( Goodge Street)

The Premier Inn chain (as the above at Goodge Street is) has many hotels in central London  and the rest of the UK on various levels of quality and size. They have three categories - Premier, Hub and Zip. All seem to be very reasonably priced for London. The Zip hotels are the very small, almost Japanese style accommodation.

Premier Inns London

London Lodge Hotel, 134/136 Lexham Gardens - highly recommended on TripAdvisor (£125). map ( Earl's Court; Kensington High Street)

Yotel Clerkenwell, 96 - 100 Clerkenwell Road, London, London EC1M 5RJ 44-203-146-1310 (£125) ( or Farringdon)

Darlington, 111-117 Sussex Gardens, Paddington, W2 2RU. Recommended by a couple that I met from Calgary as a very good place to stay in London. Located near Hyde Park.(£250) ( or Paddington)


MINIHOTELS

For very cheap accommodations (£30-40) in London see the Easy Hotel chain. Croydon, Shoreditch, Luton, Paddington, Heathrow, South Kensington and Victoria. (Most get a 3 out of 5 rating on TripAdvisor.) 

AIRBNB

There are dozens of AirBnBs in London. Here are a few select ones I have checked out that are in Central London.

Comfy Single in Marylebone Village, Bentinck St. ($125) ( Bond Street)

One room with private bathroom in Bloomsbury, Greek Street ($130) ( Leicester Square)

Lovely House in Bloomsbury Central London, Montague Street ($147) ( Holborn)


See London tube map here.

Wednesday, January 22, 2020

Sites to See - England, Scotland & Wales

Cromford Mill (aka Arkwright's Mill)

Ironbridge

Caernarfon Castle

Chatsworth House

Arthur's Seat

York Railway Museum

Falkirk Wheel

Kew Gardens

Hampton Court

Herstmonceux Castle

V&A Museum

Da Vinci at Scottish National Gallery, Edinburgh

Snowdonia

Ben Nevis

Scafell Pick

Sunday, January 12, 2020

Britain Restaurants and Pubs

As seen on Fred Sirieix's series Remarkable Places to Eat is the Michelin starred restaurant in the Leith area of Edinburgh called The Kitchin. Fred considered his meal one of the best he's ever had. High praise from a top chef! The three course à la carte menu is £110.

Sawday's online Eat and Drink guide.
Sawday's print guide: Great British Pub Guide

See Sawday's Telegraph article: 50 Great Pubs in England and Wales


Great British Pubs
Leisureways Magazine February 1997

Travel 46km (28miles) south of Edinburgh to the village of Innerleithen and visit the Traquair Arms Hotel. Notable is the house specialty, Finnan Savoury, made from the finest Scottish smoked haddock sautéed with onions and finished with Ayrshire cheddar cheese, double cream and garnished with parsley. Creamy it was and delicious, full of little rewards in every mouthful. Another house specialty was the Traquair Steak Pie, made with fine steer beef cooked in a local dark ale. A small cloud of fragrant steam escaped as I cut into the crust, the meat was tender, the gravy rich and the pastry light and flaky.

In the most southwesterly point in England — Cornwall, The Pandora Inn is beautifully situated outside Falmouth, fronting Restronguet Creek. This was the establishment which In Britain readers liked best. The editors wrote, “It’s a dream of a place — formerly a 13th-century farm. It has a thatched roof and is set on the sheltered waterfront. Rambling flagstoned rooms, low wooden ceilings and cosy alcoves set the scene.”

I asked the hostess to bring me her choice for my repast and her selections convinced me that the Pandora deserved its applause: local mussels steamed in white wine with garlic and herbs, a seafood platter of potted shrimps, prawns, smoked mackerel, brown and white crab meat, winkles, cockles and poached salmon. Wonderful!

Next I was off to England’s mid point on the east. Walk down the aptly named Steep Hill in Lincoln to the Wig & Mitre, a pub that studiously avoids pretension and one of its promotion pieces invites the public to use it “as a meeting place or an eating house, a reading room or watering hole, and a haven of peace.”

I enjoyed two smooth patés — one lentil and garlic, the other chicken liver — both sharing a sprightly radicchio salad, These were followed by a tender and delicious lemon sole with chives in nut-brown butter. The fish was enhanced by small, locally grown potatoes, a new crop and a special delight.

My next foray led me to the Cotswolds where The Falkland Arms is located in one of the prettiest villages, Great Tew, Oxfordshire. The day I was visiting, workmen were thatching one of the cottages. Many consider this the perfect English pub and there has been a public house on its site for some 500 years. Originally called The Horse and Groom, it was renamed in the mid-19th century in honor of the Falkland family, former owners of the manor of Great Tew.

The pub’s bar has a big Inglenook fireplace, century-old flagstones, high-back settles, oak panelling and beams. There’s a large collection of English mugs and jugs hanging from the ceiling here and in the breakfast room.

I treated myself to a sinfully good, homemade Stilton, port and garlic paté, the garlic and port each adding extra character to the strong personality of the Stilton. Next came a generous portion of chicken, bacon and mushroom pie with assorted vegetables, including one of my favorites, leeks.

The last stop on my culinary trek brought me to the famed Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in London. The entrance is in Wine Office Court, an alley off Fleet Street, almost next door to the shiny black mausoleum that once housed the Daily Express. The Chop Room has retained much of the appearance and atmosphere it had when it was frequented by Dr. Samuel Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith in the 18th century, and Charles Dickens in the 19th. There are still cubicles and sawdust on the floor.

I lunched at the long oaken table where those literary lions dined. There’s a portrait of the lexicographer in The Chop Room and upstairs a copy of his dictionary. The Johnson Restaurant and the Johnson Bar also pay homage to the doctor.

Licensees Gordon and Debbie Garrity live on the premises. The fish and chips were undoubtedly the best I tasted during my stay. A superb steak and kidney pie boasted fluffy pastry that almost floated away and the beef and kidneys were wonderfully tender. These English traditions were followed by another — sherry trifle loaded with fruit and topped with cream — a fitting way to end my culinary odyssey.


Traquair Arms Hotel
Traquair Road
Innerleithen
Scottish Borders  EH44 6PD
Tel: 01896 830229
info@traquairarmshotel.co.uk


The Pandora Inn
Restronguet Hill
Creek
Falmouth
Cornwall  TR11 5ST
Tel: 01326 372678
info@pandorainn.com


Wig & Mitre
30-32 Steep Hill
Lincoln
Lincolnshire   LN2 1LU
Tel: 01522 535 190
www.wigandmitre.com


The Falkland Arms
19-21 The Green
Great Tew
Chipping Norton
Oxfordshire  OX7 4DB
Tel: 01608 683653
falklandarms@wadworth.co.uk


Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
145 Fleet St
London EC4A 2BU
Tel: 7353 6170