Telegraph.co.uk August 28, 2011
All over the country steam trains are chugging back from the brink of extinction. Lucinda Baring climbs aboard the loveliest rural lines in the West Country
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| The Bodmin & Wenford Railway reopened in 1989 | The West Somerset Railway runs from Bishops Lydeard to Minehead |
Travelling by steam train evokes a hopeless sense of nostalgia for Britain's great, pioneering railway past, combined with the simple delight of seeing an enormous plume of steam bursting from a train as it pulls out of a station. Steam was all but extinct by 1968, and engines were sent to scrap yards, but thanks to heritage railway companies, who have rescued and restored many locomotives and lines, it is back from the brink.
Around 100 different lines, some little more than a mile long, have been reopened. Stations have been restored to their period appearance, with old bicycles propped against picket fences, retro billboards advertising Woodbine cigarettes and Lyons tea, plus little benches and immaculate flower beds. Station masters and ticket collectors wear proper, period uniforms. It is all part of the fantasy and romance of travelling by steam train.
Whether it is to satisfy your own interest or your children's obsession with Thomas the Tank Engine, travelling by steam offers a wonderful day out. The railways operate across Britain but here I have plumped for the seaside scenery of the West Country, home to some of the loveliest lines. You can choose one line and make a day of it or take a week and visit every one, staying at local b & bs or more luxurious establishments along the way.
Did you know?
The last mainline steam train journey took place on August 11, 1968, between Liverpool and Carlisle
DARTMOUTH STEAM RAILWAY
01803 555872; www.dartmouthrailriver.co.uk
Meandering along the coast at Torbay, over viaducts, past harbours and beaches with pastel-painted huts, this seven-mile track then takes you inland through the Devon countryside to the Dart estuary.
Get off at the end of the line at Kingswear, where there is a little pontoon at the end of the platform for a five-minute passenger ferry across the estuary to the old fishing town of Dartmouth. Here you can wander the winding streets, go to the market (Tuesdays and Fridays) or the farmers' market (the second Saturday of the month), have ice creams and go crabbing at Bayard's Cove.
You can then take an hour-long cruise along the Dart before catching the steam train home or take a longer cruise (75 minutes) to Totnes, where you can either get the special bus back to Paignton or continue your journey from there – Totnes station is a 15-minute walk away. On the water you will pass Greenaway House (which belonged to Agatha Christie), Dartmouth Castle and Britannia Royal Navy College, where the Queen first met Prince Philip.
Special events
Murder Mystery Trains (September 12, 13 and 15).
In the area
Totnes Castle (0870 333 1181; www.english-heritage.org.uk).
WEST SOMERSET RAILWAY
01643 704996; www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk
The original line, opened in 1862, ran between Taunton and Minehead. Closed in 1971, it was reopened in 1976 and now runs from Bishops Lydeard (where there is a wonderful farm shop just behind the station) to Minehead, stopping at eight stations en route.
Get off at every station along the way – the beauty of this line is that there is so much to do. Alight at Dunster and walk 20 minutes up to the medieval village (stopping at the Traditional Candy Shop en route) and Dunster Castle; at the old harbour town of Watchet for shopping; or at Washford for the 13th-century Cleeve Abbey.
There are beautiful walks through the Quantocks from both Stogumber and Crowcombe Heathfield (with walking guides sold at every station) and the best place to swim is at Blue Anchor, but make sure the tide is in or you'll have a long walk. You can also take your bike on board for £3.90 – the Fifties guard's van has plenty of space for storage.
Special events
Fish & Chips Trains (September 7 and 14), Cheese & Cider Train (September 9), Autumn Steam Gala (September 29-October 2) and Dunster by Candlelight (December 2 and 3).
In the area
The Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian gardens at Hestercombe (01823 413923; www.hestercombe.com). The best way to visit is by taking the Hestercombe Gardens Express, which is a bus that meets the steam train at Bishops Lydeard and takes you straight to Hestercombe.
EAST SOMERSET RAILWAY
01749 880417; www.eastsomersetrailway.com
The train runs five miles through the Mendips between Cranmore and Mendip Vale stations. The original station building at Cranmore is still intact, dating from 1858 when the line opened. There is also a recreation of a Victorian engine shed, a glorious old signal box and an old-fashioned newspaper kiosk selling vintage magazines.
Get off at the end of the line at Mendip Vale Station and walk back along the nature trail to Cranmore. There are three routes, varying from three and a half to seven miles.
Special events
Spooky Specials (October 23, 26 and 30).
In the area
Wells Cathedral, Cheddar Gorge, Haynes Motor Museum and Kilver Court Gardens and Farm Shop (01934 750833; www.visitsomerset.co.uk).
SOUTH DEVON RAILWAY
0845 345 1420; www.southdevonrailway.co.uk
The fact that you cannot access the station by car makes this particular railway feel all the more authentic. You reach it by walking for about half a mile from Totnes Station over a little footbridge and through the Devon countryside. The train journey, which follows the River Dart, is nearly seven miles long and finishes at the market town of Buckfastleigh.
Get off at Staverton Station and walk half a mile to the Sea Trout (01803 762274; Sea Trout Inn) for lunch. Or stay on the train until the end of the line and have a picnic by the river before visiting Buckfast Abbey and the Benedictine monastery and shop, selling wine, honey and fudge made by the monks (01364 645500; www.buckfast.org.uk).
Special events
Rails & Ales (tomorrow), Heritage Transport Gala (September 10-11) and Carol Trains throughout December.
In the area
Lots for wildlife lovers: the Buckfast Butterfly Farm and Otter Sanctuary (01364 642916; www.ottersandbutterflies.co.uk), a three-minute walk from Buckfastleigh Station.
BODMIN & WENFORD RAILWAY
0845 125 9678; www.bodminandwenfordrailway.co.uk
This line, which ran between Bodmin and Wadebridge, was closed in 1983 and reopened in 1989. It is now six-and-a-half miles long (though there are plans to extend it), running from Bodmin Parkway and over a viaduct across the River Fowey before climbing towards Bodmin Moor via Colesloggett Halt and Bodmin General to Boscarne Junction.
Get off at Boscarne Junction, where you can join the Camel Trail. You can walk to the Camel Valley vineyard (01208 77959; www.camelvalley.com) in 25 minutes or take a bike on the train and cycle to Padstow or anywhere else along the 18-mile trail.
Special events
Postman Pat (tomorrow), Autumn Steam Gala and Real Ale Festival (September 2-4), Evening Steam, Beer and Jazz Special (September 3) and 1960s Week (October 3-7).
In the area
The Eden Project, Lanhydrock House and gardens and the Napoleonic Bodmin Jail and courtroom experience. Otherwise there are plenty of beaches nearby and Padstow is just 15 miles away by car (01872 322900; www.visitcornwall.com).
AVON VALLEY RAILWAY
0117 932 5538; www.avonvalleyrailway.org
Three miles of track between Mangotsfield and Bath Green Park Station have been restored and re-laid by volunteers. The steam train travels from Bitton Station to Oldland Common before heading to Avon Riverside, passing fields with views of the River Avon.
Get off at Avon Riverside and have a picnic or walk to one of two nearby pubs, the Bird in Hand (01225 873335; www.birdinhandsaltford.co.uk) or Jolly Sailor (01225 873002; www.jollysailorsaltford.com), both of which are about 15 minutes away.
Special events
Murder Mystery (September 17 and 22) and Teddy Bears' Picnic (September 18) or you can learn to drive a steam train at various weekends throughout the year.
In the area
Bath and Bristol are nearby. In Bristol, head to Brunel's SS Great Britain (0117 9260680; www.ssgreatbritain.org); in Bath, wander the historic streets, visit the abbey and Roman Baths or see a play at the lovely Theatre Royal (0906 7112000; www.visitbath.co.uk).
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